Most Lankan curries are based on coconut milk, with a blend of spices – including but not limited to chili, turmeric, cinnamon, cardamom, coriander, lemongrass, rampe (pandanus leaves), curry leaves, mustard, and tamarind. While Sri Lanka's elephant orphanages have a mixed reputation, there are a few ethical operators close to Uda Walawe, in case you haven’t quite had your fill of cute jumbo toddlers. Start with the Elephant Transit Home, supported by the Born Free Foundation. Domestic flight options are quite limited, which means the main contenders for transportation are trains, buses, tuk-tuks and private cars. We break down what you need to know about each. Take a scenic train journey between major towns and cities

Tourists are less common in Jaffna and the north where a distinct Sri Lankan Tamil Hindu culture predominates. Respect local etiquette when visiting Hindu temples – ask for permission before entering as non-Hindus are barred from entering some shrines. Some temples also require men to remove shirts and enter bare-chested (for example, Jaffna’s vast Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil). 12. Show respect to Buddha imagesThe best ways to get around in Sri Lanka at any time of year Lahugala Kitulana National Park, Eastern Province Best for combining history with birdwatching Planning tip: Other than local families, travelers, and daily commuters, you'll find plenty of vendors on the trains selling cups of tea, instant coffee, chili-sprinkled fresh fruits, roasted peanuts, yogurt, and even mobile top-up cards. 8. Feast on Sri Lankan crabs Gal Oya is a wilderness of tumbling mountains and ancient woodland surrounding a huge, island-filled lake. The few tourists who come here are rewarded with unique experiences. The Gal Oya Lodge runs boat safaris where you can spot crocodiles, turtles, and swimming elephants, as well as immersive walks around the forest guided by members of the local Veddah community. The Vedda are the indigenous people of Sri Lanka. Originally forest-dwellers, their numbers have dwindled over the years due to migration, habitat loss, and assimilation into the nation's dominant Sinhala-Buddhist culture. Now scattered across the island in small numbers, some Vedda families still preserve their native language, cuisines and rituals in places like Dambana, an indigenous village and museum in the southern part of Maduru Oya National Park.

Stop in Kappalady on the Indian Ocean for kitesurfing lessons with local instructors at Kite Center Sri Lanka. The kite school can arrange kitesurfing safaris (tours) to nearby spots such as Donkey Point, Dutch Bay and Vella Island for more experienced kiteboarders. Other activities in Kappalady include exploring the lagoons by kayak and ethical dolphin-watching tours where large pods of spinner dolphins swim in their hundreds. Good operators will only charter small boats, keep their distance from the pods, and avoid feeding the animals. There are also a few accommodation options by the beach in Kappalady. 6. Camp in the Haputale mountains Where to try it: Visit roadside hopper stalls for an inexpensive Sri Lankan meal. For a gourmet experience, reserve a table at the fine-dining Palmyrah Restaurant in the Renuka City Hotel. Devour string hoppers with curry Where to try it: For a pol roti meal in Colombo, drop in at the ever-popular Culture Colombo. Not far away is The Cauldron, a charming cafe that dishes up kotthu made with pol roti. Go for a lamprais brunch on Sunday As you travel around the country, you’ll often have occasion to pull over at a local restaurant for a rice and curry feast. Some of the best places are simple family-owned restaurants by the roadside, offering a daily selection of meat, fish, and veg dishes (sometimes with as many as 10 choices). It's a vastly more exciting introduction to Sri Lankan cuisine than eating at a tourist restaurant where the spices are toned down. A great alternative to crowded Yala and Minneriya, and easily reached from the east coast, Kumana National Park offers swampy grasslands and large, salty villus (natural lakes) where elephants wade and storks and ibis gather. On the edge of this watery landscape, the forest harbors spectacular hornbills, colorful minivets, and characterful langurs and macaques.In Sri Lanka, buses fill the gaps train infrastructure can’t, connecting much of the country. There are both public and private buses to choose from. Sri Lanka was one of the countries worst affected by the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, which swept away more than 35,000 people and devastated many coastal areas. Following the disaster, early warning systems have been put in place in major towns and resorts, but not in rural, isolated areas, so be alert to signs of earthquakes and tsunamis. What's New featuretaps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas our writers have uncovered If you’re looking to stay put in Sri Lanka for a while, keep in mind that imported products like chocolates, biscuits, cheese, and cosmetics are expensive and hard to find. Shop for local brands at supermarkets and grocery stores. It’s always cheaper to buy fresh vegetables, fruits, and cooking ingredients from small stalls by the road or the local market. Seek out women-run health food outlets for vegan and vegetarian meals

Some train trips are so scenic, they’re an activity in themselves. The six-hour ride from Kandy to Ella, which weaves through seemingly endless tea fields, is right up there among the world’s best train routes. A recently renovated route from Colombo to the historical city of Galle conversely runs on the edge of the west coast, offering mesmeric views of the Indian Ocean. While Sinharaja Forest Reserve is Sri Lanka's top destination for birders, small Lahugala National Park is well worth visiting for avian encounters. Come in the late afternoon, when you can also watch elephants and buffalo grazing peacefully in the water-logged beru grass. The park's forests of tall satinwood, rosewood, and palu trees are home to dozens of species of forest birds, including the rare red-faced malkoha. One thing to be mindful of is Sri Lanka’s two monsoon seasons. The northeast monsoon season is from September to March, while the southwest is from May to August. Heavy rain can slow down all kinds of travel, but especially road travel – posing a particular challenge to dirt roads, which might become full of puddles, washed out and unsafe to drive on. You’re better off relying on the trains during the monsoon seasons. The only trade-off is that some train windows are stubborn to close, so there’s a chance you might get a little wet.To celebrate Eid, Muslim families in Sri Lanka prepare a coconut custard called watalappan sweetened with jaggery and topped with cashews for extra crunch. Southern Sri Lanka produces some of the world's best cinnamon, a lighter, more sweeter variety than is found in Indonesia and Vietnam. Travelers can learn about the highly prized Ceylon cinnamon by visiting Ganduwa Island on Koggala Lake, just south of Galle, by boat. For a better and more conscientious safari experience, head to Wilpattu National Park in the northwest of the island and book with a responsible operator like Leopard Trails. Their guides don't chase after possible sightings, but they do turn off their vehicle engines near animals. They will also whisper near any sighting so as not to disturb the animals. As well as leopards, the park is also home to Asian elephants, sloth bears, and bark deer all in their natural habitats. Numerous places set up tables and chairs right up to the tide line day and night. Wander and compare which one has the freshest seafood. All are good for a beer; some also serve espresso coffee. On most trains, the best spot is on the floor in one of the open doorways between carriages, with the warm breeze blowing through your hair. What should I bring onboard?