Rum - Yes, the thin sheet of metal sandwiched between heat shield and clip over stud is what I will try. Edit:- no need to start drilling extra holes in the body to use a pop rivet, just use what is there. The rattling could adlo be comming from your intake tube where the forward section connects with your intake box. You'll see some generic circular spring clips that I've used to refix (for the second time) my new rear heat shield. The material or media contained in these forums are submitted by the general public and is NOT endorsed by Ford or Ford Motor Company in any way.

Annoying knocking coming from the rear for a few weeks now, crawled under the rear and found a couple of these have corroded and fallen off making the sheild loose, could that really be the cause of the knocking, that simple ? And over the next 20 – 30k miles or so before I sold the car on I had no problems whatsoever, even when the silencer corroded, holed and was leaking exhaust gas under the car. I did get rid of one loud rattle but now there's another that's more quiet than the heatshield that I fixed. I had it replaced at the dealership the first time around but got fed up with the stupid design when it started rattling again (especially under acceleration) so here's an easy fix.If you need to repair or replace your exhaust, we’ve got all the tools, exhaust systems and car exhaust accessories you need to ensure the job is a success. At Halfords, we have exhaust essentials, including premium parts, clamps and gaskets, and other accessories. Bolts that screw straight into the chassis are usually very large with very strong threads so you can apply adequate torque to undo a seized nut. Nightmare things, the amount of cars we see per year for rattles that are nothing more than heat shields that have dropped, most rot the actual heatshield and then it’s time for a big repair washer as most don’t want the cost of a new heatshield. I looked up myself before posting a few listings and they too came up with VW transporter, Golf fitment.

It drives me nuts, because at that exact location I get a deep hum and vibration that I feel in the car, the steering wheel, and my feet. Fix depends on whether its the heatshield that's corroded away around the fixing, or the fixing that's corroded away or fallen off. When it comes to fitting them, I use a 10mm deep socket and a rubber mallet to tap them onto the threaded stud, then use a set of long nose pliers in the circular holes to twist the clip clockwise for some extra tightness.Not sure what it’s like on a quashqui, but on the focus the shield was I between the silencer and the underbody so no issues parking on dry grass.

All the "filler" that's supposed hold my shield in place just isn't there and it moves a LOT since really only one bolt is holding it. The views expressed herein are those of the individual contributors and not necessarily those of BRISKODA or SKODA. Had the rattle b4 and I thought something broke underneath, it was getting annoying when I had to remote start it everyday. i think you can see my exhaust in my signature and you can see both of them pointed down instead of straight up.

I scraped out all the iron oxide rust and the hole in the heat shield is a circle, like it has always been that size. I've bought the smaller thicker ones recently but that was only to fit one in a position that VW did not find the need to, the springy/flexible larger ones I've used for years on my older cars, nowadays these are only used to secure heat shields, their use in lower temperature locations has now been stopped and plastic nuts have replaced them in newer cars. Normal nuts, bolts and studs seem to do fine for everything else under the car… I had the fun combo of some big holes in the shield, but also some terribly corroded stupid hexagonal fasteners to remove everywhere the shield hadn’t holed.