You haven't yet told us what you intend to do about the scored cylinder liner yet, think that could be a bigger problem to solve, have you found oversize pistons and rings and a full gasket set?

In my hands these (cheapo hardware store) soldering irons give insufficient heat for reliable soldering, so I repeated the tests with a 100W (cheapo hardware store) soldering iron which was easier to arrange (and probably also gave more consistent, though not necessarily greater, heating). For this series I also measured the temperature of the exposed part of the iron, which reached a maximum of around 150 to 170C. The mortar should be made using sand appropriate to the masonry being worked on. A 50/50 sand such as CLS30 (50/50 coarse and fine sand – supplied by Cornish Lime) is the most popular for this type of work; while CLS35 (a fine clean washed plastering sand) has been used to good effect on numerous projects, where a coarse sand wasn’t appropriate to the masonry. View our range of coarse and fine sands. Before getting started, remember that the appropriate PPE measures should always be used when working with lime. While the joints to the masonry need to be appropriately prepared it doesn’t necessarily demand the same thoroughness as that for pointing. Nonetheless the works should be conducted in a diligent manner with the joints cleaned out to a depth not less than 10 mm but ideally 10-15mm for improved key.

Personally I think it's a none starter, it may well resist the heat, it'll be protected by the plug after all, think the trouble you'll have is trying to cut a new thread, there simply won't be enough surface area for it to bond too and resist the cutting action of the tap. Legislative issues: Health and Safety is an unavoidable but significant cost. Conservation work generally falls within the construction industry and therefore carries responsibilities under current health and safety legislation; these are outlined principally under the CDM (Construction Design Management) Regulations. Re it being "the prop[er way to do it", aside from, tbh, not giving a tinkers damn about the "proper" way to do anything, I'd say it was analagous to doing a dental implant without trying a filling first. Would seem rather improper behaviour in a dentist. It wasnt using a lot of oil or noticably down on compression before this unfortunate series of events, so unless the damage is very recent, which I have no particular reason to believe, it wasnt apparently having much functional impact.

Re the scored cylinder {which I dont think is quite accurate. "pitted" would be closer) I'm probably not going to do anything. I used ring-pull tabs from Budweiser beer cans (“the King of Beers” yeh, right) as standard test pieces, which seemed somehow appropriate for testing Dilute the solution first. This has various benefits including reducing the risk of damage, making the product go further, and making it safer to handle. (Use the concentrated solution once you’ve tested various levels of dilution.)

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The joints are then brush cleaned to remove excess dust and depending on conditions careful washing out with a hose may be appropriate; however, this would preferably be done at least the day before the application of mortar. Long time ago I had a clutch slave cylinder fail on my 1800 Marina. While I was kangarooing home without a clutch I broke a piston ring, which scored the bore and ring land and put quite a lot of dents on the piston crown (which fortunately was partly protected by deposits from leaded petrol)

After placing, lime mortars need to be properly cared for; during the winter, they need to be protected from too much rain, especially during any spells of frost which can damage the mortar or cause it to fail completely. At all other times mortars should be prevented from rapid drying, either by wind or sun as this will desiccate (dry out) the mortar and prevent proper hydration or carbonation of the lime binder used, often resulting in a failure whereby the mortar becomes very weak and friable. Therefore, appropriate protection is a must. In all instances it may be beneficial to protect the hessian with polythene; during the winter to keep it dry so improving its thermal protection, and during the summer it will help to keep it damp for longer, increasing humidity where it’s needed. Finishing Cut and rubbed work largely from the 15th Century – late Mediaeval Period – gauged work largely from the second half of the 17th Century Knowledge of various types and classes of building limes, different types of aggregates, natural pozzolana and artificial pozzolans, natural pigments from ochres and vegetable sourcesSuperior heat resistance of JB Weld over Bondite is thus uncomfirmed ATPIT, (would require higher temperatures) but Bondite is a “fast” epoxy (4 mins) so gives insufficient working time and is probably weaker. This seems to be the norm for readily available epoxies.