The EE-1 is described as weather-proof, which I assume applies to the battery compartment and electrical parts. There is no weather protection whatsoever of the holographic reticle plate and casing mechanics when the sight is open, and no weather seal around the parts that close against each other. The top of the casing is only there as a sun-shade against stray light and as a finger guard to prevent touching the reticle. RF style bodies eliminate much of this parallax issues - especially if the mount is made as flush with the top plate of the camera as possible. I have a couple,of laser dot sights from my long ago days as a competitive - not very good - .22 pistol target shooter. I mounted a simple, cheap laser dot sight since my old eyes couldn't see the built-in metal "iron" sights and it worked prety well. A question I have for Sherman or anyone else who has used the Dot Sight.....If you configure it to match the 2000mm zoom length and then switch off the camera and the Dot Sight, do you have reconfigure it every time you use it in the future or does it memorise the settings you originally configured? Forget the single AF point because it would require your composition to be more precise and for you to keep an eye on the LCD/EVF constantly to make sure the AF point was on the subject. On the E-M1 I used the 9-Target Group area and even the All-Target group area on some occasions. With the GX8 I set a Custom Area with 9 areas or more depending on the subject and the scene.

This only has a chance of 'working' for "dominant right eye" photographers. "Dominant left eye" (as I am) users cannot do as you describeI have one, but I don't use it much. I bought it as I found the EVF tiring to use for long periods and with a limited FoV. However there are some issues and I tend to use my FF DSLR more for BIF now, as it isn't tiring and you get a wider FoV for the same reach. A dot-sight contains a holographic reticle illuminated by an LED or laser diode. The hologram displays a circle-and-cross pattern image projected at infinity. The apparent size and distance of the target pattern remains constant, regardless of the distance between eye and dot-sight. Except for the reticle, there is nothing else between eye and subject, so a dot-sight only provides a 1:1 magnification. it's important for me to 'get a certain feeling' (muscle memory) of the position which I hold the lens/camera while using the EE1...and calibrate the EE1 to the center AF point for that position.

Here's a general description: http://www.pewpewtactical.com/red-dot-sights/ They are used a lot with guns; less so with cameras. Basically it's dot that looks like it's out there, but is only floating in the sight itself. Put dot on object and firearm or camera are aimed (although as with rangefinder sights, viewfinders that don't use the lens itself, etc one must take into account parallax and so on).Good for birds. Most other situations the camera AF is more than good enough. I have not used one but have bought cheap Chinese gunsight versions and made my own mounts. The placement of the dot-sight with respect to the camera, except for the eye-to-sight distance, is not very critical. The sight can be mounted at the side of the camera instead of the top, for example. However, the distance of the sight from the lens axis should be kept at little as possible. While a difference of a few mm is not really important, parallax is one thing that the sight cannot correct. Parallax is more important at short camera-to-subject distances, and at large distances between the sight and the optical axis of the lens. Parallax can be compensated for only if the sight is aligned against a target placed at the same camera-to-subject distance as the intended subject. In this case, parallax at the calibration distance - and only at this distance - is zero. The minimum distance for achieving this is a learning process, too close and it is accurate, framing and AF positioning is off. I identified and positioned the subject under the reticule, then what, the camera/lens is 'wobbly' in my hands. Lenses – Should have no marks on the elements andoptically clear. There may be light dust present that will not effect theimagery.

Another thing that the EE-1 cannot do is display the contour of the camera's field of view. This might be technically possible, although it would require a reticle with multiple rectangles for lenses of different focal lengths with or without teleconverter. An interchangeable reticle might be a nice addition in a future EE-2, or even an optically zoomable illuminated rectangle controlled by an adjustment knob with detents at the most useful focal lengths. The RDS has some play in the hotshoe until you tighten the thumbwheel, and the adjustment dials are easy to move during handling, so I always align the RDS each time I mount it (I don't leave it mounted on the camera at home) Timely question! Of late, I have been pushing the limits of my equipment - photographing swallows and swifts drinking and bathing on the wing ... using my Olympus 300mm + MC-20 (1200mm equivalent!!!). It requires split-second accuracy, not helped by the fact that MC-20 slows down target acquisition. But when it works, it works brilliantly. An alternative way of holding the camera is by keeping the camera strap above the left shoulder and under the right one, and push the camera away from the body until the strap tightens. In this way, the strap contributes to steadying the camera. This position increases the distance of the eye from the dot-sight, but may be vulnerable to arm fatigue. I wish I had those skills and equipment, my wife would be very happy...I could fix a lot more stuff and there might be less nagging.

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I first found out about this type of framing by virtue of the Kontur type of viewfinder marketed by Voigtlander in the 1950's for use on Rangefinder-style film bodies.

It doesn't but relies on the native camera AF capability when it finds its target via the sighting screen which has to be mechanically aligned. With BIF, I generally position myself based on the wind pattern. I use the light depending on what mood/effect I want. Depending on the location you may have limited options. Shooting against the sun can work fine, but your images will look similar if you do that all the time. My EE-1 is arriving today! And in a few hours I will be trying it out for the first time with my extreme setup.The challenge is moving my eyes from the EE-1 to the EVF; that takes a lot of practice. Sometimes it's easier to just use the LCD. Always easier to use a monopod or tripod to keep things steady. An alternative is to calibrate the sight against a target at infinity (or at a high distance), measure the distance between lens axis and sight, which is about 90 mm with the EE-1 on-camera (i.e., about the width of four fingers), then point the circle-and-cross 90 mm above the center of the intended field of view. You will have to evaluate the 90 mm by eye, and with really large and distant subjects you can skip this step and simply center the circle-and-cross onto the subject. 90 mm off-target hardly makes a difference in the picture of a car or a buffalo, for instance. A dot-sight is not meant to be used with the eye placed close to its rear port. It does work also this way, but not very well because it cuts off much of your peripheral vision and limits your field of view to a "tunnel" through the sight. Peripheral vision, and especially unobstructed vision of the area immediately surrounding the sight, should be unobstructed, because this is what makes a dot-sight superior to a camera viewfinder. The dot-sight should instead be kept at roughly 5 to 15 cm away from the eye, where the casing around the sight is unobtrusive (this is when you appreciate the fact that the EE-1 is so lightly built). Doing this with the EE-1 on the camera's flash shoe, however, forces the photographer to hold the camera away from the body, which makes the camera and a telephoto lens awkward to hold, and considerably less steady. EE-1 mounted on reversed tripod foot of Olympus 300 mm f/4 Pro.